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  Contact: Chuck Peterson - (620) 727-1347 [Email
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5.10.18 -
Ultrasound Detection

Check out the article for more info. 4.6.18 -
Infrared Thermal Inspections

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4.15.16 -

New or Rebuilt Motors

Making a New or Rebuilt Motor Ready for Service

Making a new or rebuilt motor ready for service.


Pull The Grease Tubes and Verify Grease

 Most motors are shipped dry because this stops cross contamination  of greases.

Grease has either a Polly or a Molly base and the two dont get along. When they get mixed they form an acid that will eat the races out of the bearings in 3 to 5 years. Since the motor company does not know what we use they put nothing in there and the grease for shelf life is all you have.  Pull the grease tubes and fill them full with your grease then replace them and give the bearing a couple shots for startup.

          Shaft Run Out Test

 Place a Dial Indicator at the shaft and turn it over from key way to key way. If the indicator moves more than .003 of an inch, DO NOT accept the motor. There is no way you can align a machine when you start out with a shaft that is .003 out already.

     Bench Vibration Test on Rebuilt Motors

This should be provided on all larger motors. I like this because my Ultrasound reads out on the same FFT scale and I like to compare them.

     Proper Alignment and check for Soft foot

Bad alignment and soft foot is the second leading cause of premature motor failure.

Anytime a coupler is broken open the machine should be re-aligned. Anytime a new or rebuilt motor is installed it should be laser aligned to within .003 of an inch.

 Amp Draw Test--Before and after loading

Always do an amp draw test when a new or rebuilt motor is installed. This will be the baseline to compare at a later date, if the machine starts to show problems.

We need to know what it was drawing when it was new. Then we can compare when we feel there is a problem. Bad or dragging bearings will raise the amp draw. Without this baseline we have nothing to compare.

 Always insist they bring the old bearings back from the shop.

 Have them mark them to the junction box side on the outer race. One ding for outboard end and two dings for inboard end.

This will allow you to clean them and saw them in half so we can see what failed and that may lead us to some changes to prevent future failures.

 Send a tube of your grease with the motor to be rebuilt and insist that the shop use your grease

 We cannot afford to be an experimental field for the shop, we have the right grease and we need it in all motors.

          Get a grease gun and paint it some wild color so everyone              knows that grease is for motors only

 Use a good motor grease NOT an all purpose farm grease. This gun is for motors and motors ONLY and no other grease goes in any motors.


 Chuck Peterson

Peterson Predictive Maintenance

9252 West 21st Street North Apt. #313

Wichita, Kansas 67205


Have a safe day.







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